Arguments over whether laksa or nasi lemak are from Singapore or Malaysia only make chef Damian D’Silva laugh » Singapore News

SINGAPORE: At a time when the world is so deeply divided and even the most petty debates can be fought to the death in online spaces, it is certainly refreshing to hear a prominent chef simply laugh off arguments over whether certain foods come from Malaysia or Singapore.

MasterChef judge Chef Damian D’Silva is best known for his restaurant Rempapa, where he promotes “traditional Singaporean cuisine.” Last year, he won the 2024 Artisan & Authenticity Award from La Liste, a French restaurant guide and ranking.

The distinguished chef was featured in an article in the South China Morning Post earlier this week, where he said it doesn’t matter whether laksa, among other foods, comes from Singapore or Malaysia.

When he hears people say things like “Malaysian bak kut teh, Singaporean bak kut teh or Malaysian chicken rice,” he laughs.

“What I am saying, guys, is the same. What was Singapore before Singapore was Singapore? It was part of Malaysia, you know, and we accepted that. In my time, when they talked about Malaysia, it was not a different country. It is very sad what has happened, that we have drawn a line,” he was quoted as saying by SCMP.

He added that the city-state’s traditional cuisine contains all the ethnicities present in Singapore over the past two centuries, starting with the Malays, followed by the Chinese, Indians and then the Westerners.

Many commenters on the SCMP article agreed with the chef.

“Life is short… there are so many meaningful things we can spend our time on… I don’t care where roti prata or roti canai comes from, I’m just happy that I can enjoy it in both countries. I’m glad that both Singapore and Malaysia have really good food,” wrote one.

“All dishes, regardless of their origin, should not be a sensitive topic of discussion. Let’s enjoy the dishes,” added another.

Mr D’Silva’s culinary life began early, when his Peranakan grandmother on his mother’s side and Eurasian grandfather on his father’s side included him in cooking duties when he was seven or eight years old.

“It was, ‘Damian, peel the onions,’ ‘Damian, tumbuk (pound) the rempah (spice paste)’, or ‘Damian, Giling (grind) the rempah‘ he said. And although he didn’t value it at the time, he later realized the importance of learning all those skills.

Last month, the chef received a Special Recognition Award at the Singapore Tourism Awards 2024. The award is given to those who have made significant contributions to tourism through “creativity, innovation, best practices or notable achievements.”

On Rempapa’s Instagram page, it is said that it has always been her dream to “etch Singapore’s culinary legacy into the global consciousness.” /TISG

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